Westfjords 2023

The West Fjords of Iceland

A wonderful Icelandic adventure, safely led by Philipp Jakesch.

9 days in the outback of a fascinating, unknown world. On the one side it is classically Icelandic, on the other entirely different from the popular tourist spots. Our journey’s start at the Schwechat airport in Austria sets the tone for our trip with a massive storm. As a result, we spent the first night in an airport hotel. The next day we don’t waste any time flying to Keflavik to reach the Northern peninsula, Snaefellsness. At our very first photo stop by a waterfall, we are bullied around by wind and rain as a very wet welcome. On to Grundafjördur to the famous Kirkjufell which reminds of Sugarloaf Mountain lost on the other side of the world. Here we stay overnight but only after our very stormy excursion to Arnarstapi to witness the rocky arcs against monstrous waves and their stupendous spray. A lonely and reckless tourist risks his life for a selfie at the steep cliff, and we watch anxiously, fearing that the next big wave might whisk him away. But fortunately, nothing bad happens.

The morning after we set off to Kirkufjell again and its beautiful waterfalls, now with a little bit of very photogenic sunshine. Onwards to Stykkisholmur! But first a momentous waterfall: We climb through the steep lichen cliffs to encapture the gigantic 70m high Grundarfoss. I don’t even notice that the strong breeze rips off the rain cover of my backpack (which I will later look for without any success). In the afternoon we board the only ferry in Stykkisholmur that connects the Northwest of Iceland with the magical West Fjords via the Breidafjördur. As we take our seats we are twice warned about the “heavy swell,” first in Icelandic and then in English, which I find quite amusing since I fortunately have a cast iron stomach. Others stay on the cautious side and take some gravol to hopefully counteract any seasickness. Off we go through only slight waves and calmer conditions at first, where I even delightedly take some videos on deck. But then out of the blue everything is quaking and clattering as the waves surpass the prow of the ship, inciting many a screams on board. The swirling turbulences prove too much for me after all and I regret not having taken any antiemetics. Once we have docked, everyone emphatically agrees that the Eastern land route sounds like a wonderful way back.

We drive in the region around Patreksfjördur through remote gravel roads along the almost utopically steep plateau mountains that create the unmistakable Fjord scenery. Later, we check into our amazing accommodations in Latrabjarg, the most Western point of Europe.

The weather clears up during dinner and almost every single star can be seen. Our host believes that there’s a chance of Northern Lights tonight and we practically burst out the door to drive through the vast and untouched areas to a remote sand beach close to Kollsvik. We set up our tripods as the moon rises in all of its glory behind the mountain, wonderfully illuminating the sand in the process. Through the clouds one can discern the faint beginnings of a Northern Light, then a bit more, and finally around midnight I experience one of the most magnificent Northern Lights nights with moonshine, a dreamlike beach, and soft waves. As usual with a strong Aurora Borealis, a green belt is constructed above us, meandering over the night sky as we euphorically turn in circles, our eyes fixated upwards, and I even rejoice loudly because of its beauty. This would remain the only “green night” of our trip.

On day 4, we travel to Raudasandur via Patreksfjördur, spending half the day at this gigantic orange-red beach. We are blessed with breathtaking views and, with some enormous luck, with sunshine too. Late in the evening at Latrabjarg, we scale the frightfully high cliffs (up to 450 m!) and anyone who was spared by vertigo can briefly enjoy a wonderful landscape.

The next day, we drive through the region around Bildudalur towards Dynjandi. Here we witness the most impressive waterfalls of the entire West Fjords. In 6 cascades, the water makes its stubborn way to the bottom. The biggest waterfall is the Dynjandi waterfall with its 100m height and 60m width, a stunning force of nature. In the evening we arrive in the capital of the West Fjords, Isafjördur.

The highlight of our journey on day 6 is a boat trip from Isafjördur to the nature reserve of Hornstrandir to see the polar foxes (see text below). The ride to and back on the boat are an incomparable experience with great weather for photography as vibrant sun rays fan out through the black clouds. A simply breathtaking wild coast line.

A new day sees a revival of wet weather. On this very rainy morning we have a photo shoot on a sand beach close to Borlungavik. We visit the Arctic fox centre in Sudavik where we encountered a very photogenic seal before we rest at a cute cafe called “Litlibaer”, enjoying warm blueberry pie.

In the evening we arrive in Heydalur at the hot springs and make sure not to miss out on the natural hot tubs. Courageously, I take the first step into one of the pools and the heat is surprisingly overwhelming. The second pool is more pleasant and we enjoy this natural phenomenon like guests at a wellness hotel with great fun.

Day 8, the drive to Dupavik. Waterfalls and rainy landscapes take turns to impress us. At one point I storm out of the bus essentially by myself since everyone was already fed up with the rain, and I get rewarded with a beautiful, vibrant rainbow. On one street a small, old stone hut stands alone- very picturesque. We run through the storm along the countryroad, wanting to capture this serendipitous hut, the strong winds push tiny streams ahead down the street and at zero degrees, my heavy raingear now thoroughly drenched, I dream about my hair dryer. Finally, in Dupavik I’m in an oldtimey and very tiny room and the hairdryer has a tag saying “Danger, don’t use.” After a quick haphazard dry, our next stop is the old herring factory of Dupavik. Now I know why I brought a 14mm wide angle lens: a truly gloomy industrial mood in this lost place. In fact, the area is so “lost” and forlorn that Hollywood deemed it a perfect shooting location for Aquaman.

Second last day. We soak in some beautiful mountain and water scenery on the road to Holmavik. Once there we embark on a whale watching tour with Judith Scott. As we cut through the ocean, we see three humpback whales pass us by. Our boat is also tailed by arctic-like fulmars. Our tour guide greatly enriches our experience with additional facts and knowledge, making for a wonderful adventure.

On our last day we witness the mind-blowing water landscapes of the West Fjords once more as well as the Borganes spit. I also recognize the famous road that Ben Stiller hurtled down on his skateboard in The Secret Life of Walter Mitty. Lastly, we meander through the adorable downtown of Reykjavik.

What remains from this journey are the invaluable memories of an adventurous trek through a remote and near fantastical world.